AP Top News｜车尾野餐文化在美国大学橄榄球赛事中源远流长。走进密西西比大学的格罗夫园区，感受路易斯安那州立大学（LSU）的卡真风味盛宴

在美国南方，唯有一件事能与大学橄榄球赛本身相媲美：那就是开赛前的狂欢派对。

要准确追溯尾门派对（tailgating）的起源几乎是不可能的。有人认为它始于1869年11月6日，当时罗格斯大学与新泽西学院（后更名为普林斯顿大学）进行了首场大学橄榄球比赛。也有人将这一传统归功于绿湾包装工队（Green Bay Packers）的球迷——1919年该队成立的首个赛季，他们便放下皮卡车的尾门作为赛前临时座位。

关于谁拥有最棒的车尾派对传统的争论，与这项运动本身一样历史悠久，而球迷们的创意也和他们一样丰富多彩。从得克萨斯州的“贝沃大道”、克莱姆森大学的“虎队巡游”，到田纳西州的“伏尔泰舰队”、华盛顿大学哈士奇体育场外的“帆船派对”，这些选择可谓无穷无尽。

这一传统在南方根深蒂固，而鲜有学校能像密西西比大学和路易斯安那州立大学这般将其发扬光大。

距离比赛开始还有几个小时。密西西比大学（Ole Miss）正迎来本赛季迄今为止最重要的对决——主场迎战路易斯安那州立大学（LSU）。数万名球迷聚集在校园中心占地10英亩的橡树林荫区"The Grove"，这片草地已化作红蓝相间的帐篷海洋，点缀着枝形吊灯与精美的野餐陈设。

人们对'冠军之路'的期待与日俱增——这是该项目最悠久的传统之一。当教练和球员们走下大巴，穿过历史悠久的拱门前往体育场时，迎接他们的是热烈的掌声和'加油奥莱'（Hotty Toddy）的欢呼声。

来自密西西比州牛津镇的餐饮商伊丽莎白·海斯克尔（Elizabeth Heiskell）是这一切的核心人物。自从嫁入这个球迷大家庭后，她便成了格罗夫球场的常客，并且乐此不疲。

海斯克尔（Heiskell）说：'这是校园中央的一片美丽空间，参天古树屹立于此，仿佛亘古长存。这里真是独一无二，绝非那种在停车场随便摆个尾门聚餐的场所。我的意思是，这里绿意盎然，美得令人心醉。'

与大多数格罗夫集会参与者一样，海斯克尔（Heiskell）为这场活动盛装出席。她身穿红白相间的上衣，佩戴金色首饰，并搭配一副惊艳的红色太阳镜，完美统合了整体造型。这绝非随意拼凑的装扮——比赛日的着装总是经过精心搭配的。

“当然每个人都会盛装出席。我们一整年都在为比赛购置服装，”她说道，“当宣布这是场‘红色主题’比赛时，亲爱的，我们所有人都会穿上红色。”

赛前的热烈氛围延续至沃特-海明威体育场，近6.8万名观众见证密西西比大学以24比19力挫路易斯安那州立大学。

两周后，随着派对南移330英里至巴吞鲁日，格罗夫区的枝形吊灯与优雅氛围被小龙虾盛宴和卡真香料所取代。

刚刚度过轮空周的路易斯安那州立大学（LSU）将在“死亡谷”主场迎战南卡罗来纳大学。凭借狂热球迷群体的支持，这里的主场优势依然势不可挡。

来自路易斯安那州新伊比利亚的渔民韦恩·布鲁克斯（Wayne Breaux），每周四晚上就开始为比赛日做准备。他会在周四晚上驱车前往校园附近的公寓，周五预定好位置，周六一早就开始布置。35年来，他的赛前野餐会已成为一大亮点，经常吸引橄榄球、篮球和垒球教练以及新秀球员前来参加。

布雷欧表示："尾门派对本身就是一项重要活动。许多人即使没有比赛门票，也会前来享受现场氛围、友谊和同袍之情。我固然热爱橄榄球比赛本身，但尾门派对绝对紧随其后。"

与所有出色的车尾野餐会一样，布罗（Breaux）的筹备也以菜单为核心。他的餐席上摆满了斑鳟、红鱼、牛排块、猪里脊，当然还有什锦饭和猪肉香肠。

“我们只有一个规矩，”布罗说，“如果你离开时又渴又饿，那是你的问题，不是我的。”

获取整个赛季美联社Top 25榜单的投票提醒和更新。注册入口请点击此处（网页版）及此处（美联社新闻移动端应用）。美联社大学橄榄球专题： 与

In the South, there is only one thing that can rival college football itself: the party before kickoff.

Pinpointing the exact origins of tailgating is near impossible. Some trace it to Nov. 6, 1869, when Rutgers and New Jersey (later Princeton) played in the first college football game. Others credit Green Bay Packers fans, who folded down pickup truck tailgates for makeshift pregame seating during the teams inaugural season in 1919.

Arguments over who has the best tailgating traditions are as old as the sport itself and the creativity is as varied as the fans themselves. From Bevo Boulevard (Texas) and the Tiger Walk (Clemson) to the Vol Navy (Tennessee) and the sailgating outside Husky Stadium (Washington) the options are endless.

The tradition runs deep in the South, and few do it like Ole Miss and LSU.

Its hours before kickoff. Ole Miss is hosting LSU in its biggest game of the season so far, and tens of thousands of fans gather at The Grove, a 10-acre plot in the center of campus surrounded by oak trees. The grassy area has transformed into a sea of red and blue tents decked out with chandeliers and elaborate spreads.

Anticipation builds for The Walk of Champions C one of the programs longest-standing traditions where coaches and players are met with applause and Hotty Toddy cheers as they exit the buses and pass under the historic archway en route to the stadium.

Elizabeth Heiskell, a caterer from Oxford, Mississippi, is at the center of it all. Shes become a Grove regular since marrying into the fan base, and she wouldnt want it any other way.

It is a beautiful space right in the middle of campus with gorgeous trees that have been here forever, Heiskell said. Theres just really no place like it. Its not like were, you know, dropping a tailgate in some parking lot. I mean, it is so green and so beautiful.

Like most Grove goers, Heiskell is dressed for the occasion. Shes wearing a red and white blouse, gold jewelry and a fabulous pair of red sunglasses that tie the whole look together. This isnt an outfit she just threw together; gameday getups are carefully curated.

Of course everybody gets dressed up. I mean, we shop all year long for our game clothes, she said. When they say its a red game, honey, were all gonna wear red.

The pregame buzz carries into Vaught-Hemingway Stadium, where nearly 68,000 fans watch Ole Miss hold off LSU for a 24-19 victory .

Two weeks later, crawfish boils and Cajun spices replace the chandeliers and elegance of The Grove as the party moves 330 miles South to Baton Rouge.

Fresh off a bye week, LSU lis hosting South Carolina in Death Valley, where home-field advantage is alive and well, thanks to a passionate fan base of their own.

Gameday preparation begins on Thursday nights for Wayne Breaux, a fisherman from New Iberia, Louisiana. He drives up to his condo near campus on Thursday night, reserves his spot on Friday and begins the setup early Saturday. After 35 years, his tailgate has become quite the attraction. Breaux regularly welcomes football, basketball and softball coaches and recruits.

Tailgating is an event in itself. A lot of people, even if they dont have tickets to the game, theyll come out and enjoy the atmosphere, the friendship and the camaraderie, Breaux said. I love the football game itself, but tailgating is a very close second.

Like every good tailgate, Breauxs setup centers around the menu. His spread features speckled trout, red fish, steak tips, pork loin, and of course, jambalaya and boudin.

We got one rule, Breaux said. If you leave here thirsty or hungry, its your fault. Its not mine.

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